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Speaker Test — Test Left & Right Speakers Online

Stereo channel check, frequency sweep, bass/treble tests and pink noise — no permission needed, no uploads.

Also test: Webcam · Microphone

LEFT

RIGHT

Confirm what you heard

100% private — no video/audio leaves your device; nothing is recorded unless you press Record and it stays in your browser.

Key Features

Left, Right and Both-channel test tones to verify stereo placement

Stereo sweep glides smoothly from left ear to right ear

Frequency sweep 20 Hz–20 kHz with live readout — find your hearing limit

Dedicated 60 Hz bass and 10 kHz treble checks for speakers and headphones

Pink-noise burst reveals rattles, blown drivers and loose connections

Volume slider starts at 50% with a headphone-safe warning

Pick which audio output device plays the test when your browser supports it

Self-scoring checklist confirms each channel with your own ears

How to test your speakers online

Verify left/right channels and frequency range in a minute.

1

Set a low volume

Keep the slider near 50% (lower with headphones), then click any test — the browser creates the audio context on your first click.

2

Test left and right

Press Left then Right and confirm each tone comes from the matching speaker — tick the checklist buttons as you hear them.

3

Run the sweeps

Stereo sweep should glide smoothly ear-to-ear; the frequency sweep climbs 20 Hz–20 kHz — note where it becomes inaudible to you.

4

Check extremes

Bass (60 Hz) should thump without rattle, Treble (10 kHz) should be a clean hiss-free tone, and pink noise should sound smooth with no buzz.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does this speaker test need permission?
No. Speakers are output-only — nothing is captured, so browsers play sound without any permission prompt. The test is also fully private: everything is generated and played locally.
Why is one speaker silent?
Press Left then Right. If one side is quiet, check Windows Settings > System > Sound > your device > Balance sliders, reseat the cable (half-plugged 3.5 mm jacks drop one channel), and try headphones to separate speaker from software faults.
I hear no sound at all — what do I check first?
In order: system volume and mute, the correct output device in Windows Sound settings, the physical volume knob on the speakers or headset cable, and that the browser tab is not muted (right-click the tab).
Can I test speakers without a sound card?
Yes — this page synthesises the tones with the Web Audio API, so any output Windows/macOS treats as audio (speakers, headphones, HDMI monitor, Bluetooth) works. If your device shows in the output dropdown, it can be tested.
What does the frequency sweep tell me?
It climbs smoothly from 20 Hz to 20 kHz. Most adults stop hearing somewhere between 14 kHz and 17 kHz — the point the tone disappears shows your upper hearing limit, not a speaker fault. It also exposes dead tweeters if very high notes never appear even for others.
My Bluetooth speaker has a delay or dropouts — is it broken?
Probably not. Bluetooth adds latency and can stutter on a crowded 2.4 GHz band. Keep the source close, charge the speaker, and re-test wired — if wired is clean, the speaker hardware is fine.
Are these tones safe for headphones?
Keep the volume slider low at first — start around 20–30%, then raise slowly. 60 Hz bass at full volume can damage small drivers, and loud 10 kHz tones are painful.
Why do I not see the output device selector?
Output switching uses the setSinkId API — supported in Chrome and Edge but not Firefox or Safari. Where unsupported the dropdown is hidden and the test plays through the system default output instead.
Can I test my laptop vs external speakers separately?
Yes — where supported pick each device from the output dropdown and run Left/Right again. That is the fastest way to tell a dead driver from a muted output.

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